cedar porch

The HKC 55 carpentry saw is Festool's general use circular saw. It is a close relative of the company's hallmark track saw, but is optimized for ambidextrous, one-handed operations. This makes it is especially usefull for cross-cutting and rip cutting both wood and ply.

Recently, I have been working towards a distilled approach to the process of milling, or cutting, of wood and wood products. The original Festool track saw was born out of a post-war need to quickly, accurately, and affordably process sheetgoods without the overhead of large shops and equipment. In that sense, it was designed to replace the table saw and miter saw and, with practice, has proven itself capable of such.

However, the ability to quickly rip-cut and cross-cut smaller or narrower workpieces was always a unique challenge for track saw users. There are methods for using the track saw for these functions, including MFT-style table tops with fences, dog holes, aluminum extrusions, homemade jigs, etc. I have explored and used many of these options, and they work exceptionally well, but I find the additional equipment cumbersome: both physically and mentally. Ultimately, I want less equipment and fewer tools, leading to more workflow.

And so, I have acquired the HKC55 as an experiment in a single-saw workflow for wood and ply. The saw was developed in tandem with a special rail (available in three lengths) that has features enabling the user to cross-cut quickly at a variety of angles Not only can it handle small part milling (with or without the edge guide), but it can also be used on a rail in *almost the same way the traditional track saw can. All of this capability in a very small package.

I will update this post in future installments demonstrating the saw's unique abilities.

Track-based straight line rip-cutting

Track-based cross-cutting

Edge-guide based milling and small part rip cutting

working outside in the summer, last day of July

This article is part of a series about shingling a gable wall. The first part covers running strait courses from the bottom up. In the future, I will cover initial layout, which is not provided in this article.

The shingles I am using in this article are locally known as “shim stock,” a.k.a. the lowest grade of eastern white cedar. Without getting into the weeds regarding how suppliers esoterically classify wood products, suffice it to say that they are charmingly rough and not in the least bit square. But, with somewhat careful installation and the acceptance of a varied look (or even a penchant for it), they can look quite handsome.

Leaving shingles unfinished is a traditional method of siding epecially in New England. In time and depending on exposure to local elements, the shingles will acquire various levels of weathering. I adore aged wood and enjoy watching the process through the years. The result is an effect that cannot be replicated.

Unpack bundles and make loose piles of sizes. The general sizes this style of shingle (lowest grade) comes in are S, M, and L. Use a container for easy transport and sorting.

The proportion of size quantities for these shingles is roughly 5/3/1, S-L. So, when coursing, layout of the grab pile is set accordingly so material use is even.

When running a course, use shingles with respect to proportion available. Ensure overlap with course below is >1”. Follow a control line.

When reaching a termination, it is easy to sort through the container and select sizes to fit. Ihave found that it is almost always possible to end without cutting.

With practice and good (enough) sorting techniques, cognitive load can be reduced and, with reliance on quickly assessing available sizes, efficiency makes swift work.

The next part of the series will describe a method of using the shingles to create effects around openings such as windows and doors

Clark Fine Carpentry

Back when I was a new finish carpenter working for Precision Interiors in Denver, Colorado, my beginer's mind was blown one morning by my good friend and and field supervisor, Ian. We were trimming out a custom home with knotty alder (affordable back then, scant nowadays) and were almost done. But, we were about 12' shy of finishing the baseboard and the cost of procuring more from the millwork company was big. And so, as a talented man with a formal education in furniture making, Ian decided we would make our own.

Although less complex than the baseboard we were making back then, a cove molding can be done with a straightforward tablesaw operation. In this article, I am making a cove out of eastern white pine (EWP) for an upcoming piece of furniture.

I owe a tremendous amount of who I am as a carpenter today to Ian. Get to work, Ramsey!

Rough cut board into continuous pieces.

Using a straightedge set to the proper angle, slow and steady to cut cove.

Multiple passes are required. Each raise of the blade should be equal to the height of a blade tooth.

Layout the strait cuts as needed for the molding you'd like. These will be run with the fence in place.

Two cuts made. Careful not to lose track of the orientation of the grain across the three pieces so the final assembly looks like one board still.

Starting to look like a cove after four strait cuts.

The completed cove moldings after the final two cuts, which made a fillet for the base.

Clark Fine Carpentry

A nail-down cedar deck with galvanized cut nails and boiled linseed oil finish.

The deck measures 24' wide, so layout is based on 16' and 8' board lengths which helps optimize material use (zero waste) and simplifies installation.

This article is part 1 of a series and will document the building of the finished elements of the deck including hand-nailed western red cedar 5/4x6 deck boards, black iron posts, and cedar railing with balluster components TBD.

The finish will simply be boiled linseed oil and beeswax, which leaves rich color and a soft matte finish. The ingredients for the finish can be bought at any hardare store and are non-toxic. The surface will develop a patina over the years through use, but easy, periodic reapplication of the finish adds a yearly rejuvanation. As cedar is naturally and amazingly resistant to rot and insects, the surface will last for many years.

Layout the 16' boards.

Cut remainging 16' boards in half.

Saw depth is set to cut two boards thick at two boards wide- four cut at once and a cut line left on the next two.

8' boards then laced in place to finish the layout. This is the underside of the boards.

Using boiled linseed oil (BLO) as the finish for water replency and patina developement. requires periodic, easy reapplication.

Swab the decks, matey.

Skipper and first mate, the Houston Oiler.

Boards are now flipped for installation with undersides coated.

Moral support.

Using galvanized cut nails for a hand-nailed floor feel.

Shaft of nail approx 1/8” and head approx ¼” can be used to set gaps.

Important to set a control line which can be used to ensure the boards are running true. Check periodically.

A carpenter's pencil can be shaved to exacly ¼” and also used to set gaps. It will not fall through once the board is nailed because the shaft is thicker than ¼”.

The deck is 10' deep and has 21 courses, each with a 16' length and 8' length totalling 24' long. Starting at the butt joint and work outwards from there, gapping and straightening towards the ends.

Periodic checks against the control line are key to maintaining strait lines and even gaps.

All holes can be predrilled to making nailing easier, but this is especially important on board ends and at knots.

The bit can be moved side to side to create a countersink for the nail head if needed.

First coat on the face of the boards, compliments of the Father and Son team from the Lone Star State

Part 1 of this project is complete. This initial coat of BLO will be followed with a second, followed by beeswax/BLO paste after the railings are installed.

Like any practice, carpentry requires presence, patience, and perseverance. I like to start each day with flow state activities, and recently added rowing to the mix.

and tip! orignal foundation stone, now a step.